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PRIMERS, BULLETS, and . . .

SUGGESTED PRIMER:

Federal #209A shotshell primers! Federal primers use a different energetic than other brands, and I'm STILL waiting for my first misfire, with any muzzleloader. Use of Federal 209A primers also gives you a "free" velocity increase of up to 50 fps or so, assuming the identical powder and sabot combination. It is the hotestest 209 primer on the market, and in my opinion quite easily the best choice for the 10ML-II. With 260 gr. sabots and 5744, Federal 209A gives about a 40 fps MV increase. Winchester 209 primers rate just a notch below the Federals.

WHAT ABOUT "PRIMER STICKING"?

Thanks to the patented half-moon bolt end of the Savage 10ML-II, the primer cannot stick inside of the breechplug, where it sometimes has for me in the case of the Thompson Omega, and several cheaply made Spanish import inlines. 209 shotshell primers are not identical, and you might find one "apparently" stuck on the end of your bolt immediately after firing a new 10ML-II. Freeing the apparently "stuck" primer could not be easier-- just close the bolt (empty gun!) and pull the trigger. The firing pin does all the work for you, and your primer is now free to fall out. After a few dozen shots, a very light film of non-corrosive primer energetic residue (carbon) will naturally appear on the end of your bolt-- and your primers will immediately fall free without the quick "close and fire" procedure. It is always there if you need it, though. No "capper" or "decapper" is ever required for the operation of a Henry Ball Ltd. Edition rifle.

MY BOLT IS HARD TO CLOSE!

Your breechplug is probably loose! The 10ML-II is the most sealed muzzleloader on the market today. When the bolt is closed, the 209 primer is slip-fit into the breechplug. After firing, the 209 primer puffs out; now a light interference fit. With a well lubed, loosely tightened breechplug, when the bolt is opened-- the primer can back out the breech plug, ratcheting it out counterclockwise equivalent to bolt handle throw. This just means your breechplug needs to be screwed in a bit more snugly. The other possibility after a lot of shooting is carbon buildup in the breechplug; a quick clean with Hoppe's #9 and you are back in business.

SUGGESTED SABOTED BULLETS:

My current favorite 10ML-II projectile is the Barnes 300 gr. .451 / .50 MZ-Expander with the supplied MMP sabot. They are discussed in detail here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/barnes_expander_bullets.htm .

The 250 grain and 300 grain Hornady XTP and SST bullets have also given remarkable accuracy results, which is likely why I am remarking about them. An excellent call for those who those who want a jacketed bullet. All barrels are different, of course, and your rifle will tell you what combination it prefers-- like any rifle does. The SST's, marketed as 'Shockwaves' by Thompson, are the same bullets, but have different sabots. The recent Shockwaves have been easier to load. Hornady XTPs are the better hunting bullet on deer-sized game, with little question.

UNFORTUNATELY, it is just hard telling what specific sabot blend comes with a retail-sold box of XTP, SST or Shockwave saboted bullets. Once MMP-only, both T/C and Hornady have moved off in other directions. Naturally, when you change the sabot, you can change everything. A solid approach is to use MMP "High Performance Series" HPH12 black sabots-- procured directly from MMP at (870) 741-5019. Otherwise, you just have no complete assurance of sabot consistency from box to box. Using MMP-direct HPH 12 sabots does guarantee this.

ON EXTERIOR BALLISTICS:

There are but two primary components to exterior ballistics: muzzle velocity and ballistic coefficient. Most focus on muzzle velocity, but pay little attention to the BC. The .40 caliber 260 gr. pure lead bullets, in my experience are at their best inclusive of 2100 fps (about 1430 MPH) and have by far the highest ballistic coefficient of any muzzleloading projectile in their weight class. This remains true, though Precision Rifle lies shamelessly, inflating their BC values to a level that could only be found through insanity, or drug abuse. The Savage 10ML-II one of the few muzzleloaders on market I've found that can shoot them with extreme accuracy, due to its 1:24 twist barrel. Sadly, ballistic coefficent is the least recognized value in muzzleloading, and perhaps the least understood. Necessarily, the faster you push a projectile, the ballistic coefficient drops. Those who really want to know what terminal energy is available might want to sail their bullets over a chronograph @ 100 yards. Now, you will know-- far closer than any theoretical flight model or drag coefficient alogorithm can possibly tell you. Muzzle velocity and energy are often quoted by manufacturers, but few harvest animals directly off their muzzle. It is only terminal velocity and energy that really counts, and that is where the .40 caliber bullets in .50 caliber sabots really shine.

ON HOT WEATHER SHOOTING:

Heat is the enemy of all sabots, with little dispute. It is an issue with all inlines shooting sabots in hot weather, including the 10ML-II. I'm not much of a "hot weather" hunter, but range work on hot days is a fact of life, and of course several folks do hunt big game in hot weather. I've found barrel heating at the range of no issue in 70 degree (and cooler) weather, but once you get into the 80 degree plus area, it does becomes an issue when killing paper rapidly. This is compounded a bit by the beautiful efficiency of the 10ML-II, as the Savage is so very easy to load and shoot quickly with no bore-cleaning, swabbing, spit-patching, etc., between shots. It is the resultant softening of the sabot petals that can very quickly open up your groups: the thinnest part of the sabot, the petals are in direct contact with the barrel within a couple of inches of the hottest part and are the most easily affected.

For range work in extremely hot conditions, consider lighter powder charges such as 42 grains of 5744 (Lee 3.1 cc Dipper = 41.3 grains), and give your gun at least 5 - 10 minutes to cool between shots. Also, a lighter bullet (240 - 250 gr. ) generates less heat than 300 gr. class sabots. Even this soft recoiling load will give you a muzzle velocity in the 1900 fps arena, is better than a 210 yard 8" kill MPBR load with one of these higher ballistic coefficient bullets, and delivers over 1200 foot pounds of terminal energy at that range-- not much on hooves can more than momentarily survive that, when placed in the right spot. In a hunting scenario, it is naturally only the first shot from a cool barrel that really counts.

The more devoted 10ML-II enthusiasts, that elect to do a lot of shooting on hot days, have had success just running a cold, wet towel up and down the barrel between shots to maintain consistent accuracy. I'm not tremendously patient, and on super-hot days-- wiping the barrel with an ice cold rag keeps the barrel cool, and myself. Finally, when allowing your barrel to cool, do not load your 10ML-II until AFTER your "cooling time." Another little trick is to keep your saboted bullets in the shade (better) or in your cooler on top of a frozen gel pack (best) before loading them.

If the situation is well up into the 90s (or above), and you need repeatable accuracy-- a 405 grain Powerbelt pushed by up to 150 grains by volume of Pyrodex P or three Triple Seven pellets may be the sensible alternative. The Savage's 1:24 twist barrel stabilizes heavy conicals beautifully like few other muzzleloaders, and you have no sabot petals to worry about. Any sabot-related heat limitation is now out of the equation.

BULLET STARTERS:

The question has been asked, "What about a good ramrod tip for proper seating of Hornady SST, or Thompson "Shockwave" saboted bullets?"

The Thompson/ Center part # 9067 .50 cal. 10-32 thread "Shockwave Sabot Loading Tip & Cleaning Jag" works beautifully for both. The same or similar tip is available via the hornady.com website, called out as the SST-ML Ramrod Tip (Part No. 6684). The bullets are both Hornady SST's; the sabots are different.

ADDITIONAL SABOTS:

For the latest formulation sabots available, call MMP sabots, they are the very best in the business. Magnum sub-bases (a.k.a. Ballistic Bridge Base) are available direct from MMP, and fit all MMP .50 caliber sabots.

Magnum Muzzleload Products, 518 Buck Hollow Lane, Harrison, AR, 72601 Call MMP at (870) 741-5019.

I'm an MMP and "Del Ramsey fan," but there are a few MYTHS about sabots and smokeless powder. NO sabot has ever been designed for smokeless use, and virtually any saboted projectile that performs well in a 1:24 twist barrel with hot Triple Seven loads will work just fine with smokeless loads. The issue is consistency of formulation, and using the most recent polyethylene blends. MMP offers you that, other makers may or may not.

SUGGESTED PYRODEX / TRIPLE SEVEN BULLETS:

Generally, an accurate 5744 powered bullet is also a very accurate Triple 7 or Pyrodex powered bullet. The .40 / 50 PR Bullet 240 gr. "Dead Center" and the 405 gr. Powerbelt have both been quite accurate, pushed by 100-130 gr. pellets or 100 - 120 grains by volume loose powder. When using the the sugar-based "Triple 7," or Pyrodex-- a good tip is to crack your breech plug open 180 degrees after the first 4 shots, then retighten as before. This will pay off in making your breechplug much easier to remove at the end of a day's shooting session for the requisite thorough cleaning with these comparatively highly corrosive, horribly inefficient, dirty, and expensive propellants.

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PRIMERS, BULLETS, and . . .

SUGGESTED PRIMER:

Federal #209A shotshell primers! Federal primers use a different energetic than other brands, and I'm STILL waiting for my first misfire, with any muzzleloader. Use of Federal 209A primers also gives you a "free" velocity increase of up to 50 fps or so, assuming the identical powder and sabot combination. It is the hotestest 209 primer on the market, and in my opinion quite easily the best choice for the 10ML-II. With 260 gr. sabots and 5744, Federal 209A gives about a 40 fps MV increase. Winchester 209 primers rate just a notch below the Federals.

WHAT ABOUT "PRIMER STICKING"?

Thanks to the patented half-moon bolt end of the Savage 10ML-II, the primer cannot stick inside of the breechplug, where it sometimes has for me in the case of the Thompson Omega, and several cheaply made Spanish import inlines. 209 shotshell primers are not identical, and you might find one "apparently" stuck on the end of your bolt immediately after firing a new 10ML-II. Freeing the apparently "stuck" primer could not be easier-- just close the bolt (empty gun!) and pull the trigger. The firing pin does all the work for you, and your primer is now free to fall out. After a few dozen shots, a very light film of non-corrosive primer energetic residue (carbon) will naturally appear on the end of your bolt-- and your primers will immediately fall free without the quick "close and fire" procedure. It is always there if you need it, though. No "capper" or "decapper" is ever required for the operation of a Henry Ball Ltd. Edition rifle.

MY BOLT IS HARD TO CLOSE!

Your breechplug is probably loose! The 10ML-II is the most sealed muzzleloader on the market today. When the bolt is closed, the 209 primer is slip-fit into the breechplug. After firing, the 209 primer puffs out; now a light interference fit. With a well lubed, loosely tightened breechplug, when the bolt is opened-- the primer can back out the breech plug, ratcheting it out counterclockwise equivalent to bolt handle throw. This just means your breechplug needs to be screwed in a bit more snugly. The other possibility after a lot of shooting is carbon buildup in the breechplug; a quick clean with Hoppe's #9 and you are back in business.

SUGGESTED SABOTED BULLETS:

My current favorite 10ML-II projectile is the Barnes 300 gr. .451 / .50 MZ-Expander with the supplied MMP sabot. They are discussed in detail here: http://www.chuckhawks.com/barnes_expander_bullets.htm .

The 250 grain and 300 grain Hornady XTP and SST bullets have also given remarkable accuracy results, which is likely why I am remarking about them. An excellent call for those who those who want a jacketed bullet. All barrels are different, of course, and your rifle will tell you what combination it prefers-- like any rifle does. The SST's, marketed as 'Shockwaves' by Thompson, are the same bullets, but have different sabots. The recent Shockwaves have been easier to load. Hornady XTPs are the better hunting bullet on deer-sized game, with little question.

UNFORTUNATELY, it is just hard telling what specific sabot blend comes with a retail-sold box of XTP, SST or Shockwave saboted bullets. Once MMP-only, both T/C and Hornady have moved off in other directions. Naturally, when you change the sabot, you can change everything. A solid approach is to use MMP "High Performance Series" HPH12 black sabots-- procured directly from MMP at (870) 741-5019. Otherwise, you just have no complete assurance of sabot consistency from box to box. Using MMP-direct HPH 12 sabots does guarantee this.

ON EXTERIOR BALLISTICS:

There are but two primary components to exterior ballistics: muzzle velocity and ballistic coefficient. Most focus on muzzle velocity, but pay little attention to the BC. The .40 caliber 260 gr. pure lead bullets, in my experience are at their best inclusive of 2100 fps (about 1430 MPH) and have by far the highest ballistic coefficient of any muzzleloading projectile in their weight class. This remains true, though Precision Rifle lies shamelessly, inflating their BC values to a level that could only be found through insanity, or drug abuse. The Savage 10ML-II one of the few muzzleloaders on market I've found that can shoot them with extreme accuracy, due to its 1:24 twist barrel. Sadly, ballistic coefficent is the least recognized value in muzzleloading, and perhaps the least understood. Necessarily, the faster you push a projectile, the ballistic coefficient drops. Those who really want to know what terminal energy is available might want to sail their bullets over a chronograph @ 100 yards. Now, you will know-- far closer than any theoretical flight model or drag coefficient alogorithm can possibly tell you. Muzzle velocity and energy are often quoted by manufacturers, but few harvest animals directly off their muzzle. It is only terminal velocity and energy that really counts, and that is where the .40 caliber bullets in .50 caliber sabots really shine.

ON HOT WEATHER SHOOTING:

Heat is the enemy of all sabots, with little dispute. It is an issue with all inlines shooting sabots in hot weather, including the 10ML-II. I'm not much of a "hot weather" hunter, but range work on hot days is a fact of life, and of course several folks do hunt big game in hot weather. I've found barrel heating at the range of no issue in 70 degree (and cooler) weather, but once you get into the 80 degree plus area, it does becomes an issue when killing paper rapidly. This is compounded a bit by the beautiful efficiency of the 10ML-II, as the Savage is so very easy to load and shoot quickly with no bore-cleaning, swabbing, spit-patching, etc., between shots. It is the resultant softening of the sabot petals that can very quickly open up your groups: the thinnest part of the sabot, the petals are in direct contact with the barrel within a couple of inches of the hottest part and are the most easily affected.

For range work in extremely hot conditions, consider lighter powder charges such as 42 grains of 5744 (Lee 3.1 cc Dipper = 41.3 grains), and give your gun at least 5 - 10 minutes to cool between shots. Also, a lighter bullet (240 - 250 gr. ) generates less heat than 300 gr. class sabots. Even this soft recoiling load will give you a muzzle velocity in the 1900 fps arena, is better than a 210 yard 8" kill MPBR load with one of these higher ballistic coefficient bullets, and delivers over 1200 foot pounds of terminal energy at that range-- not much on hooves can more than momentarily survive that, when placed in the right spot. In a hunting scenario, it is naturally only the first shot from a cool barrel that really counts.

The more devoted 10ML-II enthusiasts, that elect to do a lot of shooting on hot days, have had success just running a cold, wet towel up and down the barrel between shots to maintain consistent accuracy. I'm not tremendously patient, and on super-hot days-- wiping the barrel with an ice cold rag keeps the barrel cool, and myself. Finally, when allowing your barrel to cool, do not load your 10ML-II until AFTER your "cooling time." Another little trick is to keep your saboted bullets in the shade (better) or in your cooler on top of a frozen gel pack (best) before loading them.

If the situation is well up into the 90s (or above), and you need repeatable accuracy-- a 405 grain Powerbelt pushed by up to 150 grains by volume of Pyrodex P or three Triple Seven pellets may be the sensible alternative. The Savage's 1:24 twist barrel stabilizes heavy conicals beautifully like few other muzzleloaders, and you have no sabot petals to worry about. Any sabot-related heat limitation is now out of the equation.

BULLET STARTERS:

The question has been asked, "What about a good ramrod tip for proper seating of Hornady SST, or Thompson "Shockwave" saboted bullets?"

The Thompson/ Center part # 9067 .50 cal. 10-32 thread "Shockwave Sabot Loading Tip & Cleaning Jag" works beautifully for both. The same or similar tip is available via the hornady.com website, called out as the SST-ML Ramrod Tip (Part No. 6684). The bullets are both Hornady SST's; the sabots are different.

ADDITIONAL SABOTS:

For the latest formulation sabots available, call MMP sabots, they are the very best in the business. Magnum sub-bases (a.k.a. Ballistic Bridge Base) are available direct from MMP, and fit all MMP .50 caliber sabots.

Magnum Muzzleload Products, 518 Buck Hollow Lane, Harrison, AR, 72601 Call MMP at (870) 741-5019.

I'm an MMP and "Del Ramsey fan," but there are a few MYTHS about sabots and smokeless powder. NO sabot has ever been designed for smokeless use, and virtually any saboted projectile that performs well in a 1:24 twist barrel with hot Triple Seven loads will work just fine with smokeless loads. The issue is consistency of formulation, and using the most recent polyethylene blends. MMP offers you that, other makers may or may not.

SUGGESTED PYRODEX / TRIPLE SEVEN BULLETS:

Generally, an accurate 5744 powered bullet is also a very accurate Triple 7 or Pyrodex powered bullet. The .40 / 50 PR Bullet 240 gr. "Dead Center" and the 405 gr. Powerbelt have both been quite accurate, pushed by 100-130 gr. pellets or 100 - 120 grains by volume loose powder. When using the the sugar-based "Triple 7," or Pyrodex-- a good tip is to crack your breech plug open 180 degrees after the first 4 shots, then retighten as before. This will pay off in making your breechplug much easier to remove at the end of a day's shooting session for the requisite thorough cleaning with these comparatively highly corrosive, horribly inefficient, dirty, and expensive propellants.